Alice Springs Desert Park
Story and Photography by On The Road |
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Alice Springs Desert Park offers all the mystic charm and fascinating wildlife of Australia’s unique desert.
Yet it does. In fact, it supports a startling array of plants and animals in rich and complex eco-systems. So how does any traveller enhance their understanding of this truly unique environment? The answer is simpler than packing a library of natural history books and having the Bush Tucker Man and Sir David Attenborough along for the ride. Just take Sir David’s advice and visit the Alice Springs Desert Park. As its name suggests, the park is near Alice Springs in the Northern Territory. What makes it different from any other zoo, botanical garden, museum or cultural centre is that it is a combination of all four.
The
park has recreated three habitats usually found in this arid region: Sand
Country, Woodlands and Desert Rivers. Inside these habitats, the animals,
reptiles, insects and plants native to these areas are integrated with
their traditional uses and management by Australia’s desert people. A
good place to start a visit is the Exhibition Centre, not far from the
entrance gate. This building houses galleries and interactive displays on
Central Australian history, life cycles of animals and plants, Aboriginal
culture and the effects of changing seasons on the landscapes – to name
but a few. Best
of all is the centre’s theatre, where for 20 minutes visitors watch a
beautifully crafted film showing the 4500-million-year evolution of our
desert landscape. Even more dramatic, actually giving me a goosebump
attack, is what happens after the film. The huge 17-metre-wide screen
descends, slowly revealing the red-rock horizon of the stunning MacDonnell
Ranges. Near
the exit of the Exhibition Centre kids will enjoy meeting the three
mascots, each representing one of the habitats. Press a button and Spencer
the burrowing frog (Desert Rivers), Chilpa the western quoll (Woodlands),
and Alexis the spinifex hopping mouse (Sand Country) will either tell a
story or sing a song.
To
continue on the circuit of walking tracks will bring you to the Woodlands
Habitat. Each habitat has an interpretive shelter housing several
displays, some electronic and/or mechanical and featuring animal
characters, in this case, Chilpa. Some
of the animals and birds protected by the enclosures in this section are
kangaroos, emus, scarlet-chested parrots, kingfishers and rainbow
bee-eaters. Vegetation fringing paths and shading enclosures includes
lemon grass, Australian bluebells and bloodwood trees. In
the Sand Country habitat, examples of some of the vegetation and birds
include desert oaks, mulgas, wattles, ruby saltbush, spinifex, chats,
quails and spinifex pigeons. Desert
Rivers features doves, finches, bush stone curlews, river red gums bush
bananas and saltbushes. One aviary is of particular interest. Protruding
from a solid wall, inside this huge, walk-through birdhouse, is part of a
Toyota four-wheel drive with an occupant. Press
a button and “Leo” the stockman will recount his childhood memories of
collecting bush tucker. This aviary with its shady pools is a wonderful
spot to take a break. But if a squad of kids troop in, be warned:
They’ll all want to hear what Leo has to say... over and over again. In
all, the park has more than 300 plant species and over 100 animal species,
too many, you’ll agree, to list separately. Most plants near paths are
labelled with their common and botanical names and sometimes bush medicine
uses. To find some of the mammals and reptiles from these three areas look
in the fabulous Nocturnal House. Here
day suddenly becomes night. Chances are most of the plants and animals
encountered on your progress around the park you’ll have seen before.
Let’s face it – kangaroos, emus and cockatoos are not exactly rare but
how many of us have seen western quolls, numbats, ghost bats, bilbies or
even thorny devils? The
Nocturnal House has them all. Along with the Exhibition Centre this was
the highlight of our visit. To actually see bilbies (and yes, they are
active, not just curled up asleep in their burrows), quolls, malas,
kowaris and the vast array of lizards, including a Lake Eyre dragon, is a
very special experience. Not
only is the lighting in the Nocturnal Hose designed to turn day into night
but the duration of light emulates seasonal changes. In this way normal
life cycles such as breeding, are disrupted as little as possible. Another
plus is that photography is allowed. Keepers assured us the flash
doesn’t disturb the animals at all. Behind
the scenes, important research, breeding and propagation programs are in
progress. Success stories include breeding the extremely rare rock rat, as
well as red-tailed phascogales, greater stick-nest rats, plains rats,
malas, and bilbies. The
rock rat had not been sighted for 30 years until three were brought to the
park in 1996. Spinifex,
an important part of desert ecology, has been difficult to reproduce and
it now has a well-established propagation program. Anyone who has
accidentally sat on these spiky chunks of needles must surely appreciate
some of the pitfalls horticulturalists must have experienced. Technology
is an amazing tool that’s applied throughout the park, even with plant
placement. GPS gear is used to map out the precise co-ordinates of all
plants. All details including origins, position and history are then
entered into a comprehensive database. Special
events such as talks by zookeepers and horticulturists, discussions on
bush medicines and bush tucker, happen at regular intervals during the
day. One
of the keepers told us a charming story of captive birds swapping their
food through the wire of their aviaries with their unfettered
counterparts. The
effects of our visit were far reaching. Immediately after we were able to
recognise more plant species, names of lizards were instantly to hand and
during desert travel, tracks left by night were investigated to discern
what animal or reptile had been busy. What
was truly amazing was our football-crazy, 10-year-old son saying: “Look,
there goes a scarlet-chested parrot,” and our seven-year-old son
correcting a teacher’s description of a mulga snake. Alice
Springs Desert Park
clearly demonstrates how the elements, animal, botanical and human,
link together in the endless ecological chain of this arid region. But
there is a lot more than just this simple study of habitat. Take a walk in the park to find out for yourself. |
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Alice Springs Desert Park Facts |
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Location: On
Larapinta Drive 6km west of Alice Springs, Northern Territory. BEST TIME TO VISIT: From April
to September. The Park recommends at least three hours for a visit but I
would advise longer, perhaps a full day. Facilities: Restaurant/cafe
supplying meals, snacks, cold drinks, coffee and tea at reasonable rates;
gift shop featuring local art and craft; shelters throughout the park with
seats and water fountains; education centre for specialist groups by
arrangement; wheelchair access and hire. Admission Fees: Adult
$12; child (5-16 years) $6; family (2 adults/4 kids) $30;
student/pensioner $6. More Information: Alice Springs Desert Park, PO Box 1046, Alice Springs NT 0871. Phone (08) 8951 8788, fax (08) 8951 8720.
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